Solo in Hanoi

Thursday 25^th July started well having slept through the night and waking at 5:30am.  Vi-Lay was already awake and waiting for me to wake before starting to organise her suitcase ready for her flight home that afternoon. She had confirmed her domestic flight from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh, a two hour flight, then received a notification from Jetstar to inform her of a delay.  Instead of 4 hours in transit, it’s now 9 hours – leaving Ho Chi Minh at 3am!  I find this is very typical of Jetstar. The delay was a blessing as her domestic flight was late, eventually arrived in Ho Chi Minh airport just before 8pm, then half hour bus ride to the terminal where she picked up her luggage and walk over to the international terminal to check-in her flight back to Sydney.  After passing through immigration and finding the departure gate, there was another message to say Jetstar was further delayed – this time until 7:30pm, an extra 16.5 hours inside the airport!  Praise the Lord Vi-Lay is a seasoned traveller and packed extra food, clothing, charger and battery pack for her phone!  Joining other delayed passengers, some who had been at the airport for three days, she settled down for the night on chairs which were pushed together to make a bed.

Meanwhile, back to our last day together, we went down for breakfast at 7am before heading out by 9:30am to see if we could find the café serving the original egg coffee invented by Mr Nguyen Van Giang in 1946.  He had been working at the time as a barista for the 5-star Metropole Hanoi Hotel.  His recipe was inspired through difficult times in Vietnam when milk was hard to find, causing him to consider eggs as a suitable substitute.  The coffee shop is now a very popular tourist destination.

We found our way there and put our order in.  It was cheaper than the previous place by 15,000 dong, being made from local drip coffee not the expresso we had formerly had before our overland trip. Local coffee has more of a bitter flavour.  While here, I started chatting to a Pilipino family, two young guys in their late teens early twenties and their parents. They had lived in Brisbane for some years and were only in Hanoi for a four day visit.  I told them about our recent road trip and suggested if they were interested to contact Ngoc.

On our return to the hotel, through the back streets we passed many small shops selling clothes.  Vi-Lay wanted some slacks which she had seen en route to the coffee shop so we stopped to look at them more closely. She was not confident to haggle so I tried but was told it was a set price.  With her purchase in hand, we headed first to an ATM for me to withdraw enough cash for the next six days then stopped for lunch at the rice pancake shop opposite the hotel.  Having eaten we returned to our room for Vi-Lay to shower and get ready for her flight home. We were to check out of our large room at midday but had been permitted to stay as my room wasn’t ready.  I was a bit disappointed I was given the key to our ‘cosy’ twin bedroom instead of a single room.  Still this room was familiar to me, even though I had to remember to keep my head low so as not to knock it on the central beam. While Vi-Lay was getting ready I moved my things into the cosy room leaving it to set up later

Ngoc arrived at 1pm to take Vi-Lay to the domestic terminal. He brought with him two bottles of fresh (not UHT) milk for me to make my kefir. I accompanied them to the airport as the heavens opened up, sending down a torrential downpour, only stopping as we approached the airport.  Ngoc mentioned how the rain stopped just as we arrived and Vi-Lay said we were blessed with God’s provision.  I would miss my travel companion; we were a good pair, complementing each other in many ways. Ngoc dropped me back at the hotel reassuring me he was there if I needed any help.

I hibernated in my little room for the rest of the day, avoiding the heat and humidity, setting up the room how I liked it, repacking my suitcase, leaving out the clothes I’d be needing for my wintery return home.  I made up the kefir hoping it would set overnight, and posting the latest blog online for all to read and a prayer request for Vi-Lay.  I also decided I couldn’t be bothered going out to eat so ate a banana I’d kept from breakfast and some of the fresh milk Ngoc had bought me.  I was surprised I couldn’t sleep till after 10:30pm woke again at 2:30am and couldn’t sleep till after 4am, but this gave me opportunity to leave Vi-Lay a message to see how she was.

I was awake and up at 6am, then down for breakfast when it opened at 7am.  By 8am I was out to explore and to buy some yogurt as the previous little packets I bought were milk not yogurt!  Returning to the hotel by 9am I chatted (via Google translate) to the cleaners to let them know I had put my kefir outside my room as it was warmer.  They were impressed.

I then sat amongst the late risers while they ate breakfast and did some work on my computer while snacking on some of the leftover breakfast buffet dishes.  I noticed one of the chefs was wearing thongs, OH&S doesn’t seem to be operating here in Vietnam.  We have seen construction workers five stories up also wearing thongs and working without a harness; the motorbike riders must wear helmets but these are so small and thin, only covering the top of their heads not the sides or the back where protection is also needed.

I was feeling a bit queasy a little later that morning, maybe too many breakfast snacks.  I’m glad I didn’t need to do anything important. Instead, I chatted to Vi-Lay stranded at the airport, wrote up the next community garden newsletter and generally had a lazy morning till around 2pm when I ventured out again.  It was very hot and humid but I wanted to see if I could find the Evangelical Church which was about 10 minutes away.  En route I passed a man cooking satay pork over a charcoal BBQ, note to self; come back and buy some for lunch. I found the church but was told there was no English service which was disappointing as the only other one I wanted to visit was over 10km away.

As I returned to the hotel, I spotted a place that sold ice desserts with jelly, beans and the like.  Going in I made my way upstairs to a lovely quaint air conditioned room.  The furniture was old style Vietnam and very ornate. It wasn’t long before I was on my own enjoying my dessert and catching up with Vi-Lay’s exploits. By then she had found there was another meal provided by Jetstar at 5pm, although she had to buy her own lunch. Praise the Lord she had enough Viet Dong on her. She returned to the chair-bed throughout the day to rest, which was convenient located near a filtered water dispenser and the air conditioning meant it wasn’t hot and sweaty.

Back at the hotel, I found out that the flights were probably affected by the big storms in the Philippines.  The manager also helped me call the Hanoi International Church, Ahn gave me her WhatsApp contact so we could correspond.  She also tried to find someone coming from Hanoi Old Town but was unsuccessful; I reassured her I could take a Grab and God willing meet her on Sunday at 9am. I later received a message from one of the elders, JV sunder Singh who also said she was looking forward to meeting me on Sunday.

When I woke in the morning, I received messages from Vii-Lay to say she had arrived safely and was looking forward to going back to bed to catch up with her missed sleep. After my breakfast, I filled up my water bottle with lime and pineapple juice, then headed off while it wasn’t so hot. Sticking to the shaded side of the street I made use of the morning shadows to keep away from the heat of the sun as much as possible.  I intended to follow the railway line to where Vi-Lay and I had seen the shops lining the railway line.

I did see a lot of interesting laneways with locals peddling fresh produce. I followed the overhead railway tracks, walked through the station to take some photos of the track and the bridge over the river, which we were unable to see when we first visited Hanoi. Looking around I couldn’t see the must-see tourist attraction with the shops and cafes along the line. To the right of the station was the direction I had walked, to the left there was a bridge with one way motorbike lanes on either side of the tracks.  This train track was built above the city on a structure that had large archways which had mostly been filled in with bricks, beside which were small access lanes that ran the length of it.

Disappointed, I turned back to the hotel passing more shops, this time with lots of dried goods, herbal medicine stores and people squatting on low stools eating Pho and other quick breakfast meals.  I was stopped by a man, who I thought was a cobbler, with his basket of tools.  He was peering at my sandals, then pointed.  I turned my foot over so he could see the side where the straps joined the sole leaving a gap  He gave me the thumbs up for a good pair of sandals, I agreed saying they were strong.

I was drenched through with sweat by the time I reached the hotel.  Time for a quick shower to cool off and wash out my clothes, ready for my next venture out for an egg coffee at midday.  By then my clothes were just about dry having put them in direct range of the fan, so I was able to put them back on.

Returning to the place Vi-Lay and I had first gone to, I was recognised and warmly welcomed.  Mr Tuân made me a Special Egg Coffee this time, not that I asked for a ‘Special’, it was similar to the hot egg coffee but came with ice and was 10,000 dong more expensive. On one side of their menu ‘special’ meant alcohol is added but this definitely didn’t have any. Mr Tuân also quizzed me on how to make egg coffee, making sure I could duplicate it when I get home.  He suggested instead of using condensed milk, I could try honey or a vanilla syrup; I thought golden syrup could be used too.

It was then back to the hotel for another reprieve from the heat and humidity before venturing out again to find some lunch around 2pm.  I wanted to find somewhere selling rice and green vegetables. After scouring south of my location and finding only very expensive western priced restaurants or local noodle soup shops, I gave up.  I decided instead to buy the same pork satay I had bought the day before and another bowl of mixed jellies, seeds and ice dessert at the quaint little shop with air conditioned rooms upstairs.  I was happy to stay here awhile just to relax and cool down before returning to my hideaway in the cosy room to retire for the rest of the day.

I slept well, rising for an early breakfast before getting ready for church.  I then booked my Grab motorbike which took me through the streets of the old quarter heading south towards the newer side of Hanoi and the business district. I arrived in good time letting JV know I was heading up to the auditorium on the 17^th floor.  There were a bunch of people in the foyer greeting people and a lovely Ugandan lady at the door who ushered me towards a seat; JV soon found me to say hello.  It was then I realised the photo on his WhatsApp must have been his wife.  I sat at the back so as to give myself room to dance and not disturb anyone. It was lovely being at church again after missing out for so long.  Lovely to be amongst family again.  I enjoyed the worship and the preaching, then after the service introduced myself to the Aussie couple, church elders, who are from NSW.  Rhianon asked me to lunch on Tuesday as she had another Aussie staying with her and thought it might be nice if we all caught up.

I left and started to walk back in the direction of the old quarter.  It wasn’t too hot but the traffic was a bit much, so after 3km I called for another Grab which dropped me at the hotel.  After a quick shower to cool down, I washed my damp clothes, made myself two cups of coffee with my little ‘Minipress’ coffee maker, one for then and one to take with me cold in the morning.  After a bit of a rest I set off back out into the streets to look for some lunch.  As I passed the staff having lunch downstairs I commented I had tried to find rice for lunch but hadn’t found anywhere that sold it.  The manager said I could have some from their kitchen when I returned.  I found the same satay man who recognised me, and the owner of the ice dessert shop who smiled as I entered.  I could smell durian, so asked if she could add it to my mixed bean and jelly dessert.  She said no, it came with milk.  Hmmm no thanks.  In the end she made my mixed dessert and added a scoop of durian which was so nice of her.  It was delicious.

After my short rest here, I returned to the hotel with my satay sticks and asked for a small bowl of rice to which I added some Japanese seaweed sprinkles which I’d bought from home and needed to use up.  Vi-Lay later commented ‘where are your greens?’  Hahaha in the chendol and seaweed, I proclaimed!

Back in my room, I posted a few reviews online, including one for Ngoc, which he was impressed with, chatted with Vi-Lay, whom I’m missing having around to talk to, then added the day’s exploits to my journaling and generally took it easy, out of the heat and humidity.

With only two and a half days left at the hotel here in Hanoi and already lots to tell you, I’ve decided to send this before posting the last days in Hanoi.

Photos: 1. Elephant-apple (Dillenia indica)    2. At Mr Nguyen Van Giang café    3. Lane beside overhead railway line    4. Mixed jelly and bean dessert    5. Dried products store    6. Making satay    7. My lunch

Prayer & Praise Points:

I praise God for this amazing adventure both in Bali and Vietnam.  For His protection and provision. I have seen His hand at work in so many areas during this time and I’m so grateful.

Praise the Lord for answered prayer for Vi-Lay’s safe return to Sydney and for my last days in Hanoi.

Please pray for my safe return home, that I may not have any delays and smooth connection through Bangkok.  Please believe with me that I will be able to take all my things through as hand luggage with only 7kg.

Please continue to pray for Gayle’s ongoing health concerns, especially her eyes, for Anthony Higgs who is needing a shoulder operation and for Elsie and Ross Winchester as they continue their cancer treatment. Believe with me for the Lord’s intervention and total healing for all of them.

Continue to pray with me for world peace both in the Middle East, Ukraine and Russia, South Brazil, PNG and all countries dealing with major disasters, wars and the unbelievable hardships they cause.  Pray for all those caught up in the suffering these events have caused.  Pray that God’s peace may be known by all people especially for those who live in despair, that they will find hope in Christ Jesus.

Please keep my sisters, Tricia, Jen and Kat, in your prayers.  Pray that they will come to know the love of Jesus.